Honda CRF230F - Modifications August 21, 2006 version  Introduction   Modifications   Big Bore   DIY Notes   Carb Notes   A look back

Changes I made to the 230F from November, 2002 to Spring, 2003

What is going on here? I just bought the 230F, and already I'm modifying it. Well it's in my nature to change any new bike that I buy. I justify changes as 'personalization', but I suspect I'm just a closet engineer, and I want to 'design' my own changes to satisfy my engineering urges. I did the following in no particular order:

Removed unnecessary plastic, which included tank shrouds, side and front number plates. The bare black tank is rather crude looking. Removed the unnecessary exhaust pipe heat shield. I cut the two right-side number plate spacers off the muffler; I don't use the side number plates, and I needed to get that extra weight off ;-)

With the plastic side covers (number plates) removed, part of the battery compartment was exposed. I made a small unobtrusive plastic cover to secure the area. I also made a small box for the front that holds my lunch, extra gloves, etc. I made both of these out of Kydex plastic, which is easily cut and is heat deformable. Purchased the Motion Pro "MP" tool kit and small vise grip pliers to carry in the box on the front.

Added Kold Pak™ to the rear of the seat. The pak is a CycoActive SpareTube Fenderbag, and it holds my MSR Gore-Tex Pak-Jak, Cold Pro gloves, polypro glove liners, and Masque. The pak mounts using four straps with clips that fasten over the fender edges, although I run the straps through slits in the fender, so they absolutely won't pop off. Mounted a trailer marker light as a tail light. Mounted the license plate backed with a thin piece of plastic.

If you ride in rocks (who doesn't?), then you may damage the cotter pins and washers on the bottom of the foot peg pivot pins. The cotter pins often get mashed and dragged off, and then the washers drop off. To minimize this problem, I reversed the foot peg pins, mounting the cotter pins and washers on the top. The flat heads on the foot peg pivot pins don't stick down at all and can take substantial abuse and never come off. Replaced the shifter mounting bolt with a longer bolt, then added a lock nut. The shifter will never come loose!

Made a skid plate to protect the frame rails under the engine. The Honda-supplied protector only covers the frame at the front and leaves the lower rails exposed. I cut a piece of plastic from a blue feed pail and mounted it with some old MSR skid-plate mounting clamps. I got the pail from the local Big R farm and ranch supply store; it comes in green and blue;-)  Sano!

As noted before, the exhaust is too noisy with the baffle removed. After a few minutes studying the baffle, I decided that a hole in the upstream end and four holes in the sides would open it up sufficiently. I drilled one 11/16" hole in the end that faces the engine and four 25/64" holes through the sides of the body. I drilled through the body twice, leaving 4 holes. Why these sizes? 11/16 looked like the largest that would go in the end without ruining the end cap. 3/8 looked about right for the side holes, but my 3/8 was dull, and 25/64 is one step larger, so I used it instead. Great engineering - lucky guess. The exhaust sounds great now, and there is still enough back-pressure to keep the low-end torque. I also removed the air box intake baffle. After the baffle exercise, I went up one on the main jet, and the plug is nicely tan colored.

Disconnected the tranny breather tube from the air box and added an air filter. I sealed the air box connector with shoe goo. I ordered a Uni breather filter from Chaparral. Uni part number UP-103; Chaparral part number 314-9852 ($11.99). Decoupling the tranny from the engine intake is supposed to reduce pumping losses. The new Yammies do it by adding a bypass channel in the engine cases.

Removed the throttle push cable. I squirted a dab of Shoe Goo into the empty hole on the rubber throttle cable guide.

Changed the front sprocket from 13T to 12T. This change added back some performance zip that was lost because I ride at elevations over 7,000'. The change didn't affect top speed much. The 230F uses the same front sprocket as the 88-95 XR250R. I bought a Sprocket Specialists 568 sprocket, but other brands will work as well ($12.96 from Chaparral). The Service Manual says to place the flat side of the sprocket facing out (the stepped side toward the engine). The chain is continuous and does not have a master link. When you put the smaller front sprocket on, you'll have to loosen the rear axle to get some slack in the chain to swap the sprockets. Make sure you set the chain slack correctly when finishing up.

Installed an enduro jug and a Trail Tech odometer. While engineering the odometer installation, I swapped the starter button to the left side of the handlebars, next to the kill button. I had to cut off a small plastic locating pin in the bottom half of the starter button assembly. The swap allowed me to remove two plastic zip ties for a weight savings of around 4 grams. More weight savings.

Installed Answer aluminum handlebars and Wacker hand guards. The Wackers have a three-axis inner handlebar mount, which makes them easy to mount on just about any bar bend. I cut the bars down to 31.25", my preferred width. I cut the tip of the clutch lever off, which allows me to pull the clutch in without pinching the two little fingers still on the grip. The bars and trim saved a few grams. Every little bit helps.

Left         Right        Side

Added air bleed valves to the fork caps, so I could bleed fork air when I tie the front end down in my van. Note: you must remember to bleed air back in before riding, or the front end will sag! I bought the Motion Pro Pro Bleeder valves ($23) and did not use the M5 x .8 extensions. I had the fork caps drilled and tapped with the obscure 5/16 x 32 tap (had to order from MSC). Motion Pro has a Pro Bleeder kit ($38), which includes the tap, but I didn't find that out till later. Then I found a set of NPT tank valves at Car Quest auto supply for $3. These require the commonly available 1/8 NPT tap. I've installed tank valves before but went with the Motion Pro valves this time because they are easier to use, and they look trick. Bleed the fork (1 MB MPEG file)

As I unloaded the bike for a ride in March, I noticed the front tire was flat. After removing the tire and tube, I discovered several holes and a tear on the side of the tube, as if pinched by the tire sidewall. The stock Pirelli MT320 tire has a very flexible and lightweight carcass. I replaced the tire and tube with an IRC VE-35 3.00-21 6-ply rated tire and an MSR Gold Medal heavy-duty tube. The front wheel seems to track better now, and it looks a lot sturdier than before. The MSR Gold Medal heavy-duty tube is not as heavy as the Metzeler or Moose heavy-duty tubes but is heavier than a normal IRC or Cheng Shin tube and the stock Pirelli tube. The MSR heavy-duty tubes are a good compromise if you're trying to keep wheel weight down and want reasonable pinch protection. As for the tire, I think the IRC VE-35 6-ply rated tire is the best front tire for trail riding (since the Dunlop K139). (I said trail riding, not racing!)

I mounted a Cheng Shin C-755  4.10 -18 when the stock rear Pirelli wore out. The rear Pirelli wore better than the front Pirelli, but I didn't care for its flexible carcass any more than I did the front tire. I installed an MSR Gold Medal heavy-duty tube also. However, the 4.10 turned out to be much smaller than the stock 100/100 Pirelli, and I didn't like how it performed. I had hoped the 4.10 would be a low-profile wide tire, but it's not. So I mounted an IRC iX05H 100/100-18 (with the MSR tube). The iX05H is almost the same size as the stock Pirelli, and it works great.

One day, after I finished working on the bike, I failed to tighten the seat bolts. During a short test ride, I remembered my error, but when I checked the bolts, one was gone, and so was the collar. I had spare bolts and nuts, but the collar was another problem. On one of the CRF230F forums (ThumperTalk or CRFsOnly), someone found that the collars are not listed in the parts catalog for the 230F. Another rider offered the fact that the CRF450 uses the same collars and provided the Honda part number 83505-KM4-000. I ordered six of the collars (just in case I lose one again ;-). When I compared the 230F collar to the 450 collar, I noticed that the 450 collar is .05mm thicker. This is not enough to even notice during a casual visual inspection. The picture on the left shows the stock 230F collar on the left and the 450 collar on the right. Note the thicker flange on the 450 collar. I also used locking flange nuts instead of the stock non-locking nuts; see the picture on the right. I bet they don't come off again (as long as I remember to tighten them!).

Seal Savers - Early in 2004, I decided to remove the drab black fork boots and install some snappy looking SealSavers. I rode all of 2004 with the SealSavers on the forks, and they worked great. They kept dirt and mud off of the seals, as advertised. But, I discovered that the SealSavers were being torn up on the side that faces the tire. I think the front tire I use (IRC VE-35 3.00-21 6-ply rated) is a bit wider than most front tires. I like the wider tire, and rather than change to a narrower tire, I decided to add a plastic guard to the SealSavers. I used some flexible blue plastic, cut about 1" high. I cut two rows of guide holes and threaded two black zip-ties through the holes. I've used this setup for about a month, and it's working just fine. Note: I also shortened the SealSavers because I did not need the extra length on the fork outers for retention; the zip-ties do that fine.

SRC Fork Brace - In December 2005, I decided to install the SRC fork brace because I wanted to stiffen the forks a bit. You'll see in the pictures that I did not use the SRC black, full-length fork covers provided in the kit but instead used a set of shortened blue SealSavers; I like the look of the short blue vs the long black... I also did not use the SRC pattern for the fender cutout but instead carefully cut only the absolute minimum necessary to clear the fork brace, including the .125" clearance that SRC recommends. I also added an SRC fender brace, which is the black plastic piece above the fender. Both of these measures insure that the fender will have adequate strength, even when loaded with mud. On my test ride at Texas Creek OHV area, the forks felt great in the sand washes and over whoops, and the stability in the rocks was excellent. I think this was a successful project.

CR85R Expert forks - In August 2006, after living with Honda suspension for 10,000 miles, I finally decided to take the plunge and upgrade to something better. I'd seen many fork conversions described on ThumperTalk, but the Reger Engineering fork kit appealed to me the most. For one price and one transaction, I was able to order a complete CR85R Expert fork conversion kit. There would be no fiddling around buying parts on eBay and/or the ThumperTalk 'for-sale' forum (and others). There would be no modifying, machining, or MacGyvering anything, just bolt it on and go. I ordered the complete kit by calling Reger Engineering directly. The kit includes every part necessary to mount the new forks AND ALSO brand new Honda CR85R Expert forks. I also ordered a set of .40 springs to handle my weight. The first box to arrive included everything but the forks. I was pleased to find a rather extensive set of very complete instructions. I spent an evening removing the stock front end and mounting the new front end. This included a modified CR85R lower triple clamp, a beautifully machined chuck of aluminum for the upper triple clamp, and some standard height handlebar mounts. I also installed the axle spacer in the front wheel. The second box arrived a few days later, and it contained the brand new Honda forks. I quickly replaced the stock springs with the .40s and slipped the forks into place. I bolted on the brake adapter, the brake caliper, and the fork protectors. I replaced the brake cable and bled the brakes. I installed the front wheel and axle. Lastly, I installed my small blue box that holds my extra gloves, lunch, and hand saw. I stepped back to take in the complete picture. The front end was gorgeous and looked like it could take on anything with those 'fat-top' forks. And then it dawned on me - I didn't have to make any parts or modify any parts or change anything. The front end went on easier than any other mod of this size and complexity I've ever done. My hat's off to Reger Engineering for the outstanding kit they have produced. I'd like to add that the ordering was equally as smooth and trouble-free, as well as a follow-up call I made to them asking a few questions. I rode the bike around a few trails near Taylor Park, and the front end worked splendidly. The front end had stability comparable to that of my CRF250X, and the forks were plush and comfortable. They soaked up everything I tried, and I never felt any harshness or jolting. After riding, I checked everything, as Reger advises in their instructions, and all bolts were still tight, and all parts were as good as new. If you want a trouble-free experience, go for the whole Reger Engineering fork kit. But if you want to save some money, you can just buy the parts you want from Reger Engineering and scrounge the other parts elsewhere. Every part in the kit is available separately, so you have a wide variety of choices. Bottom line - for best results, get the whole kit! PS my next project is to bolt on the Works Performance rear shock!

Skid Plate - After installing the new CR85R Expert forks on my 230F, I cast a critical eye on the homemade feed-pail skidplate and decided it was time for something better. I had recently read about the Hyde Racing skidplates on a ThumperTalk topic, so I checked out their web site. The Hyde units are made of Teflon/Co-Polymer, which they say is a form of polyethylene. They're supposed to be plenty tough, so I had high hopes. Hyde makes skidplates for the CRF230F and CRF250X, as well as other makes and models. What luck! I'd be able to test one on the 230F before committing to one for the 250X. The E-Line carbon fiber skidplate that I've been using for the last two years on the 250X has gotten quite a few nicks and pieces gouged from the bottom, and I decided it was time for a new one for the 250X also. Mounting the 230F model was a little difficult. The sides at the back end wrap around the foot peg mounts, and the fit is so tight that the skidplate does not fit flush with the frame under the engine unless you hold it tightly in place. Then, the front and middle mounting bolts don't line up with the frame nuts. I had to elongate the front hole about 1/16" toward the top front and the middle holes about 1/16" toward the back. I left the bracket hole unchanged. With these elongations, the mounting bolts went in with just a little coaxing. The rear bracket snugged up with just a little help guiding it with a long screwdriver under the engine and above the frame tubes. The skidplate fits snugly, and once all the mounting bolts are tightened up, the wraparound parts fit tightly against the foot peg mounts. I think the plastic will bend to this shape and when I remove the skidplate for oil changes, I hope it will go back on easier. Yes, I did say remove for oil changes. While you can get the oil drain plug off without removing the skidplate, it's very difficult. There are no drain holes in the skidplate, so an oil drain hole would also have to be drilled in the bottom of the skidplate. I'll just remove the skidplate for oil changes. How does it work? Excellent. The Hyde is a much better skidplate than the feed-pail unit I had installed previously. It wraps around the frame and lower engine and provides a nice amount of protection. The few rocks I've slid over and banged into haven't done any noticeable damage. In fact, the bike seems to slide over rocks easier than before. Not that I ride that much in the rocks.

Other comments

I ran out of things to do to the 230F so I bought a 250X and started over ;-)  Note: I love the 250X, but I still ride the 230F on tight technical scouting rides and I still enjoy the 230F.

I wanted to use the battery from the 250X on the 230F, but it turned out that my 250X has the exact same battery as my 230F; bummer. I wanted a light-weight high-tech gel-cell to replace the stock battery. Sigh.

I'll also check out swapping in the 150F right-side engine cover to get a manual kick start (as a backup for the magic button). Note: a rider who did this ended up using the CRF150 5-speed tranny gears and spent a bundle to get the kick start, so I won't bother doing this.

A friend was working on 250 and 280 cc piston kits. The 280 piston caused cylinder instability, so it is out. My friend is not interested in a smaller displacement kit - "Riders want a BIG-bore kit, not a slight increase in size. We're not going to do any further work on the 230F." Note: see the Big Bore page for information on what I eventually ended up doing.

I will not be putting lights on the 230F; I don't ride at night. The Jan 03 Dirt Bike issue says on page 67, "It has a lighting coil, but no youth-sized XR/CRF comes standard with lights."

The Service Manual shows: "Alternator - Capacity - 60W/5,000 rpm". The alternator wire goes to a regulator/rectifier box. The output then goes to the battery plus terminal. The battery is only used for starting. So if you tap into this circuit, you take amps from the battery charging circuit, which is probably ok. After starting, wait a bit before switching on your lights to let the charging system top up the battery. There is one other alternator output: from the alternator exciter coil to the ignition control module. Don't mess with this circuit!

Pictures of the stator in the Service Manual show that two or three of the eight poles on the stator do not have any wiring on them. Ricky Stator will rewind the stator for more watts. I found these pictures posted by parkrider on a Yahoo group:

Stock stator

Modified by Ricky Stator

NOTE: the only minor problem I've encountered with the 230F is a tendency for the wheel spokes to loosen when I ride the bike hard. I check and tighten the spokes about once a month now. This is not a problem, just a maintenance item.

Gordon mods

GordonB from Huntsville, AL made a very effective and easy-to-make skidplate for the 230F.

Starting with (A) a Maier plastic skidplate for a Honda 300 4x4, I cut off the front part (B), and then trimmed off the rear corner sides (C) to clear the shift lever and brake pedal.

This plastic is nearly 1/4" thick, and is extremely tough. I've had one on my ATV for over six years, and it has never cracked or broken. It's easy to cut with a band saw or jig saw, and can be curved as desired with heat from a heat gun or propane torch. I like it better than aluminum because it's lighter, doesn't dent, and it has a bit of "give" to it to absorb impacts. (Ed note - It's quieter than aluminum, also.) I've been using mine for several weeks now, and it works very well.

This particular skidplate sells for about $75 and is available in red and black. Smaller skidplates are available for less, but I don't know their sizes, or if they are wide enough.

Other comments from Gordon

I've not seen much benefit from the Power Up jetting. Using the stock front sprocket with a 54T rear sprocket (had to add one link and two master links to make it fit) seems the perfect combination for my riding. As well as being a good Trials play bike in the rocks and logs, it's no slouch in very tight and rough trails, either. I've been able to keep up with and often stay ahead of my friends on their 250s to 450s in the 5-15 mph sections of the woods. In the faster sections, of course, it runs out of horsepower and suspension pretty quickly.

DaveC mods

DaveC lives in Colorado Springs. He modified his 230F by adding lighting and a few performance mods. Here are his comments: I installed an Acerbis Diamond headlight ($75) that required some modification. The headlight comes with three 20 watt bulbs, and I removed the smaller third bulb to limit the draw and allow sufficient battery charging. I plugged the hole with some scrap plastic and epoxy. This reduced the wattage consumption but still maintained adequate illumination for trail riding. I checked the stator output myself. The manual states that the system is rated at 65 watts. The actual was slightly higher, but I still modified my lights to comply with Honda's specifications. With the headlight, taillight, and brake light on, the system draws 54 watts. I installed a hydraulic brake light switch ($12) on the master cylinder.

The straps to connect the headlight to the forks are designed for larger forks, so I bought a bicycle inner tube ($2), cut it in half, and wrapped each half around the forks where the headlight connects. This produces a non-slip connection. To operate the lights and eliminate the need for two separate switches on the cramped handlebars, I purchased a Baja Designs combo light and kill switch ($25, part #129020) and removed the stock kill switch.  (Editors note - Sano!)

I purchased an Acerbis Modular Enduro Taillight ($36) and removed the light from the fender piece that came with it. I turned the light up-side-down and attached it to the under side of my rear fender with two sheet metal screws. The screws protrude through the fender under the seat and cannot be seen unless the seat is removed. The light fits just right to allow visibility from the rear but otherwise is not visible on the bike. When the rear shock is completely compressed, the tire just misses the light. (Editors note - this has to be the most unusual taillight mounting, ever ;-)

The lighting kit is wired through the ignition key switch. I did this after consulting several other motorcycle systems that come stock with electric start and lighting. It is not currently fused. However, I believe the power to the keyed ignition switch is already fused. The lighting setup works great. It's a good alternative for those looking for a light kit that looks sleek and doesn't cost too much. Total cost was about $150.

Jetting info Main: 128 Pilot: 40 (stock is 42) Needle: Honda Power-up kit part #16012-KPS-921 (clip in 4th position) Pilot screw: Stock (5/8 turn out) Float level: Stock Jetting related Intake baffle: removed Exhaust baffle: removed (I plan to try a holey baffle in order to quiet things down.) Transmission vent filter: no Air filter: Twin Air w/oil Fuel grade: 91 Ride elevation: 8000 ft Other modifications Handguards: Acerbis Skidplate: no Engine mods: BBR rev limiter The BBR rev limited did produce some minor performance increase, but I would say it does not justify the expense. Most riders probably would not notice.

LeoA mods

LeoA lives in Colorado Springs. He modified his 230F by adding lighting and a few performance mods. Here are his comments: I did your jetting changes and some baffle mods. I will make bigger holes now. Left the stock 102 main in as I ride lower (Divide and Trout Creek area) often. The bike is soft (poor throttle response) in the mid-range, but then again it only has about a half hour on it. Great response off the bottom. The lights turned out great. I made the harness myself. The dealer was kind enough to give me the OEM Honda connectors AND loan me the crimp tool!!! Hint on the brake switch - the bike is very hard to put a rear mechanical on it. I tried. Ended up putting a pressure switch on the front - replaces the banjo bolt. Fairly well protected, sits right under the bar and the wires don't stick out. Also on the headlight - the rev box makes for an interesting rube goldberg exercise! I got lucky - the UFO old XR copy design has a hole in the bottom-front. I was able to use 1 1/4" PVC spacers on the fork legs to a) make the rubber holders tight, and b) position the headlight correctly so the rev box sticks out some in that hole in the bottom below the lens. I'll send you the Acerbis part number for the taillight. Went on really slick with no cutting. I drilled holes through the side support as the picture shows to route the wiring. The 230 is working best for the 135 pound girlfriend with the stock 13T front sprocket. First is plenty low for her.

Jetting info Main: 102 Pilot: Stock Needle: Stock Pilot screw: Stock Float level: Stock Jetting related Intake baffle: removed Exhaust baffle: modified Transmission vent filter: no Air filter: Stock Fuel grade: n/a Ride elevation: 8000 ft Other modifications Handguards: Enduro Engineering Skidplate: no Engine mods: no

Setup info from the field - a collection of info from various sources (use with caution)

Manchester Honda 1/15/03 - November Motorcycle/ATV Service News - Author: Shane

You may remove the intake restrictor and exhaust diffuser on the CRF150F/230F, in order to get more power. When making these changes, change the needle and main jet as noted below.

Rick's note: Although this service note recommends the 132 main jet, testing has shown that jets from 120 through 128 provide better performance. The size that works best depends on elevation, temperature, exhaust pipe modifications, muffler modifications, air filter modifications, and air box modifications. The more modified the intake and exhaust system, the larger the main jet should be for best performance. Higher elevations require smaller main jets.

CRF230F CRF230F Full Power Needle  16012-KPS-921 #132 Main Jet  99113-GHB-1320	CRF150F CRF150F Full Power Needle  16012-KPT-921 #115 Main Jet  99113-GHB-1150
Picture from Woodsrider (LynnK)	No picture available.
The bag contains the needle, clip, and needle jet (aka needle bushing). The needle jet is identical to the one already in the carb. It is provided in the bag so you can use it if the one in the carb is worn. You don't need to install it. (It takes years to wear one to the point of replacement.) Needle markings - CRF230F needles are stamped with an alphanumeric code that you can just barely read with the naked eye. Stock needle '03-'05  16012-KPS-901  stamped C39A Stock needle '06  16012-KPS-731  marks not available Full Power needle  16012-KPS-921  stamped C30FF The needle jets are not marked. The carburetor gasket set contains all the gaskets, seals, and o-rings in the carb: 16010-KCE-670 about $16 at Service Honda.	Needle marks not available.

Excerpted part of Honda Bulletin dated 11/1/02

This is what I did to my wife's CRF230F. The dealer gave me a tech bulletin showing what to hop up.
Remove the air box restrictor (leave the screen in). This restrictor is located under the seat in the top part of the air box. Just pull it up and out.
There is no restrictor between the carb and engine.
Remove the baffle from the muffler.
Replace the jet and needle set with part number 16012-KPS-921. Put the clip in the middle position.
Replace the main jet with part number 99113-GHB-1320
These are all factory part numbers.

The main jet is a 132. I also purchased a 130 and 135 just to see which works best but the 132 worked perfectly.
The bike has tons more power now and sounds a lot better. The only disadvantage is it is a bit more picky on choke setting when cold now.

For my wife's bike I will rejet today to a 132 or 135 main, 48 pilot, and the Power Up needle on the 3rd clip position from Honda.
Part number for the needle is 16012-KPS-921
All restrictors removed and the bike is pitifully lean with stock jetting. We ride at 5-9000 feet.

The 230 runs like a different machine with the new jetting. The 230 needs to be rejetted if you uncork it, and probably would like to run richer if left restricted.

Aftermarket developments (as of 3/20/03)

Several companies have made, or will soon have available, aftermarket parts for the CRF150F and CRF230F. Here are several that I've tracked down. Click on the blue underlines for web sites.

BBR Motorsports   253-631-8233

Available now for the CRF230F:

Air filter Aluminum frame Billet gas cap Exhaust pipe

Graphics kit Heavy duty fork springs Heavy duty shock spring Rev box

Shock linkage Skid plate Triple clamps Complete bike!

Coming soon: Big-bore kit

Fork brace kit
Heavy duty aluminum skid plate

R&D on big-bore engine kits; nothing available till summer.

CRF150F rear shock available now.
CRF230F rear shock available soon.

Parts, manuals, fiche

I order all Honda parts from Service Honda, 800-828-5498.

I order all other parts, tires, tubes, lubricants, etc. from Chaparral, 800-841-2960.

I ordered the Honda 2003 CRF230F Service Manual from Helm, Inc for about $48, including shipping.

Helm also has the parts fiche information available as a high-quality booklet (8.5 x 11), which is much better than printing the fiche yourself (see below). The booklet is bound with a heavy paper cover and includes Part Number and Part Description indices. These booklets have the same content as the XRs Only parts catalogs back in the middle 80s but are much higher quality.

I ordered and received the Honda 2004 CRF230F Parts Catalog, which is Helm's nomenclature for the printed fiche. I also received the Honda 2004 CRF250R Parts Catalog that I ordered; it shows all the CRF250R secrets ;-)

I ordered the Honda 2003 CRF230F parts fiche from motocom.com for $17 and printed it on paper at the library for .10 per page. motocom.com also has the Honda 2003 CRF230F Service Manual now.

2003/2004 differences

I reviewed the '03-'04 Parts Catalog, looking for differences between the 2003 and 2004 models. The only differences I could find are the fender and tank shroud colors. 2003 is Fighting Red; 2004 is Extreme Red.