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Yamaha 2009 WR250R - Modifications

October 27, 2011 version

 Introduction 

 Modifications 

 Big Bore 

 Maintenance 

 Tuning 

Click pictures to supersize.

I sold my WR250R in May, 2013.
There will be no more updates to these WRR pages.

Modifications are shown in roughly the order I did them.
For another take on some of these mods, check out WRR Dual Sport.com .

Parts changes between '08 and '09 WR250R models are shown here: WR250R changes from '08 to '09
Parts changes between '09 and '10 WR250R models are shown here: WR250R changes from '09 to '10
Parts changes between '10 and '11 WR250R models are shown here: WR250R changes from '10 to '11
Parts changes between '11 and '12 WR250R models are shown here: WR250R changes from '11 to '12

                                                 Alphabetical table of contents 

AIS removal 
Bag, tools, et al 
Battery and electrical 
Big bore kit 
Case protector 
Drive chain 
EXUP removal 
First ride 
Flapper valve removal 
Footpegs 
Fork bleed valves 
Fork mods 
Front brake line 
Front sprocket 
Fuel tank   CHANGE 
GYTR muffler 
Handlebars, guards, mirror 
Head vent hose 
Headlight shield 
Levitating the fuel tank 
Lowering the seat height 
Manufacturer labels 
Mirror 
Mojavi Saddlebags 
Muffler mods 
 
Naked bike look 
Parts removed 
Rear shock 
Rear sprocket 
Roto Pax fuel pack 
Shift lever 
Skid plate 
Taillight 
Temperature stickers 
Tires, rear sprocket, and drive chain 
Tool tube   CHANGE 
Trail Tech Endurance computer 
 

The 'FMF Power Programmer' and 'Power Commander V and Auto Tune' topics have been moved to the Tuning page; this page is getting toooo looong.

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When I got my WRR home, the first thing I did was weigh the bike and take measurements. I drained the fuel tank so I could get the empty weight; the WRR weighed 280 pounds. If you look at the Parts removed list at the bottom of the page, you'll see that I removed about 20 pounds of parts during the course of doing my mods. I then added back about 5 pounds of new parts, yielding a net loss of about 15 pounds. This puts my WRR at around 265 pounds, ready to ride with no fuel.

A gallon of gasoline weighs 5.93 to 6.42 lbs (2.69 to 2.91 kg), depending on temperature, type, and blend (e.g. with methanol, water, benzene etc.). I filled the fuel tank with premium, non-ethanol gas until it was full and even burped it to get the max in that I could - 8,100ml or 2.13 gallons. Using 6.25 pounds per gallon, I get about 13 pounds for fuel giving 278 pounds for the bike, ready to ride with a full tank of gas.

The seat height was 37" for the unladen bike.


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busy First ride

I removed the buddy pegs, safety reflectors, turn-signals and mirrors, installed a smaller mirror, and went for my first ride. It was a very enjoyable ride, even with trying to keep the revs down during break-in.

Somethin' tells me I'm into somethin' good.....


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Lowering the seat height

The first mod I usually do is to lower the seat height because I have only a 28" inseam. If I wanna' ride, I gotta' be able to get on and off the bike easily. Yamaha has provided a ride-height adjuster on the shock. Here is what I did:
Screwed the rebound adjuster (black knob) clockwise, all the way in, and then unscrewed it a full 25 clicks plus 2 more for good measure.
Loosened the large nut that was seated against the lower shock mount.
Removed the bolt from the lower shock mount.
Turned the nut up the shock shaft until the nut just touched the rebound adjuster knob.
Screwed the lower shock mount further up the shock shaft until it touched the large nut.
Replaced the lower shock mount bolt.
Snugged the nut against the lower shock mount.
Re-adjusted the rebound adjuster.
I later learned that you don't have to undo the lower shock mount.

The seat was lowered from 37" to 36 1/4"; good enough for the initial break-in rides, but I still needed a lower seat height for trail riding, where I often have to put my foot down in technical sections. I had ordered a YamaLink to lower the bike even more, but it had not arrived when I did this adjustment.

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Here's a picture of the final adjusted nut and lower shock mount.

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The YamaLink arrived after a few days and I installed it in about 10 minutes. I removed the link bolts and the stock link, installed the YamaLink, then installed the link bolts, and done. I lowered the triple clamps on the forks about 18mm as suggested by YamaLink and others. Although this amount is less than the rear, it seems it is appropriate considering the differences between how forks and shocks+linkage work.

The seat was lowered from 36 1/4" to 35 1/4"; almost exactly what I needed. I reset the race sag and the seat ended up at 35" and I was satisfied.

YamaLink - about $145.  Motorcycle Lowering Links


More lowering

The previous panel shows that I lowered the seat height to 35", but about a month later I mounted the rear MT43 tire, and the axle height was raised 5/8". I rode my WRR this way for the rest of the summer and through the fall and, finally, in early spring of '10, I decided to get the seat height back down to something more comfortable for me.

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I bought a used seat in late fall and used BPG's (and SheWolf's) seat cut-down mod as a guide to what I needed to do. Like them, I left the front of the cover attached to maintain proper mounting over the tongue when finishing up. I marked cutting lines to make it easier to keep the seat symmetrical. I did not go as far forward or back as they did and others have done. On the tongue, I wanted the stock thickness so my tank bag would still sit the same. On the rear, I wanted a slight lip, similar to the seat bump the MX guys use but not as big.

As you can see, I didn't mark for a lot to be removed; 1" at the front, tapering to 1/4" at the rear. Taking out the rounded top of the seat and the large chunk at the tongue turn-up was all I wanted to do.

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I had my choice of two bread knives, fine and coarse. Both were equally hard to use.

I managed to cut out what I wanted without too much butchering.

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I used a sanding block and some coarse sanding paper to try to finish the seat to a smooth surface. This made the biggest mess; I had powdered foam everywhere. It accumulates a charge then sticks everywhere but in the trash bag. So, I got out my sander and used 80 grit paper to finish the job.

The shop vac solved the clean-up mess.

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As I was approaching the end of the smoothing process, the sander started digging small divots that you can see near the bottom of the pitch-up area. I smoothed these out and more returned, so I stopped while I was ahead. Later I found that the sand paper had caught on something, and a small tear on the right edge was causing the problem. Next time I'll be more careful with the sandpaper roll.

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I used my Arrow electric stapler, which has an extended nose to do the stapling. On the staple box to the left you can see two staples; the left one is what I removed from the seat, and the right one is an Arrow 1/4" staple I used to tack down the seat cover.

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You can see where I carved the dip into the foam at the front. The small bumps on each side of the seat about 2/3rd of the way back are where the seat strap was mounted, and they will disappear in a few weeks. This is also where the 1/4" lip is located, which you can just see in the right side picture.

I took a ride today. The seat felt lower, and I was able to reach the ground easier. The seat felt a bit more comfortable with the rounded top removed, and my butt seemed to stay more firmly planted. I like the look, and I'm happy I did the mod.

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Although my stepped, lowered seat was a pretty good amateur effort, I felt that there was a more comfortable option out there, and I got in on the group buy from Seat Concepts in Feb, '11. I ordered a lowered seat, black gripper/carbon fiber cover, and no labels. I paid extra to have them mount the foam and cover.

The seat arrived and I had a look - a bit wider and lower, with a nice gripper cover. I installed it on my WRR and it looked great. There were a few wrinkles at the dip because the larger 3.1 gal IMS tank puts the front of the seat at a slightly steeper angle. But it looked great to me. And the ride - yes, the ride. I can't ever remember a seat that felt this good, from initial leg-over until climbing off after an 8 hour ride. I spent long stretches just sitting in place without having to move back and forth. Seat Concepts got the fit and feel just right.


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busy Levitating the fuel tank

Now down to business. I decided that I didn't want to try disconnecting the fuel injection electrical line and fuel hose from the bottom of the fuel tank, so I rigged a system to hang the tank from a rod connected to my garage door tracks. The prospect of breaking the plastic fi connector tube put the fear in me; one rider had broken the plastic tube when he took the fuel tank off of his Husky and I didn't want to be in the same spot. He spent quite a bit to fix the problem; the plastic tubes are not a replaceable item, they are part of the fuel injection pump body.

  

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AIS removal

Once the tank was out of the way, I had easy access to everything. I removed the AIS first (see  WRR Dual Sport.com  for details and some very good pictures).

First, unplug the solenoid assembly from the wiring harness. Then unbolt the metal tube from the cylinder.

<-- Before

After -->

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AIS solenoid assembly.

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AIS hose. One end connects to the solenoid assembly and the other to the right-front of the air box - remove the hose.

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I bought an AIS removal kit sold by KEI off-road on eBay. The metal block-off piece and gasket go on the cylinder where the AIS metal tube was unbolted. The large plastic plug goes on the air box port where the hose was unplugged. The small plastic plug is used during the flapper valve removal mod.

AIS removal kit - about $18.  eBay  Note: not currently on eBay
Krabill's AIS removal kit on wrrdualsport.com - about $20.  wrrdualsport.com  scroll down to the bottom.


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EXUP removal

I removed the EXUP controller from where it sits under the left side of the air box (see  WRR Dual Sport.com  for details and some very good pictures). I inserted an EXUP servo motor replacement module I bought from DynoJet; this insures that the ECU doesn't notice the servo is gone and throw a code.

Once the cables are disconnected from the valve in the exhaust pipe, I made sure that valve was kept in the open position by the external flat spring. I cut off the mounting bracket that held the cable ends. Several days later, I ground off the mounting screws from the valve and knocked it free of the rotating post inside the exhaust pipe. Later still, I removed the post and the exhaust pipe is now totally clear of all EXUP-related obstructions.   EXUP butterfly removal

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EXUP remains
--->

EXUP servo motor replacement module - about $65.  DynoJet / Power Commander
EXUP servo motor replacement module - about $49.  South Seattle Sports Plaza


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Flapper valve removal

I removed the flapper valve from the air box intake tract (see  WRR Dual Sport.com  for details and some very good pictures).

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Hoses, surge tank, and solenoid valve

There are two screws that must be removed; one holds the black surge tank in place and the other holds the fuel cut solenoid valve in place (at the end of the right hose).

Remove the short hose that goes to the diaphragm.

Then remove the longer hose that goes to the throttle body. Remember the short plastic cap from the AIS kit above? Use it to plug the open port on the throttle body.

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Diaphragm

Remove the diaphragm from the top of the air box (turn it counterclockwise 1/4 turn), taking care to undo the short hook that connects to the flapper valve as you remove it.

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Flapper valve

I decided I didn't want to screw or glue the flapper valve down, I wanted it out of the air box intake tract. I had a look and decided I could drill through the pivot shaft and the valve would break out. It worked!

Digging the shaft remains out was a bother, but I didn't give up, and out they came.

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All gone; how nice and clean looking.


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busy Head vent hose

This picture shows the right front of the air box with two ports capped with plastic caps and held in place with small light green hose clamps. The lower horizontal port is is where the AIS hose connected before I removed it (see AIS removal above). The upper vertical port is where the cylinder head vent hose connects.

The cylinder head vent hose runs from the valve cover to the upper port. Air enters the air stream inside the air box between the air filter and throttle body. This allows hot, oily, unfiltered air to pass through the throttle body. As I discovered on my TE610, oil residue builds up inside the throttle body and on the butterfly (see lower picture of my TE610 throttle body). I did not want the same problem with my WRR.

I removed the hose from the upper port and installed a 1/2" hose barb and a Uni filter on the end and tucked the filter behind the frame. It has stayed in position for several months with no problems. You may want to restrain it with a zip tie. I installed a plastic cap and hose clamp on the upper port. The plastic cap from the AIS kit and a hose clamp were installed on the lower port.

  

The observant will have noticed some pink 'stuff' on the shock preload adjuster rings. That is pink fingernail polish and I put it there to mark the position of the rings. The polish goes across the rings and a few threads on the shock body. If the rings move, the polish will no longer line up and I can take corrective action (tighten the rings against each other more).

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TE610 throttle body showing oily deposits.


Hose clamps (light green) x 2 - about $1.50 ea at your local hardware store.
Plastic cap - about $.50 at your local hardware store.
Hose barb 1/2" - about $1.50 at your local hardware store.
Uni filter UP-103 1/2" - about $14.  Chaparral Racing>


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Fork mods

The front forks were really getting to me. They seem too soft sometimes and too harsh at other times. No amount of adjusting got rid of the harsh feel. I decided to change the fluid and see if that would help. As I took everything apart, I discovered that the oil height was higher than I thought it ought to be. This would explain the harsh feeling I was getting; long before the end of the stroke they'd lock up. I did not disassemble the base valve shim stack on this go round. A close inspection of all parts did not show anything amiss, so I put everything back together, adding Amsoil 5 wt suspension fluid about 115mm from the top of the collapsed fork. On my next test ride, the forks were much better and some clicker fiddling helped a lot. I still think they need a revalve, and I should get to that sometime this winter.

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Several riders have complained about the fork protectors rubbing the fork tubes so I had a look at mine, and sure enough, mine were rubbing also, albeit, very lightly. I used a heat gun to apply heat up and down each guard about 1 1/2" from the outside trailing edge, then bent them out a bit using two ruler-like thin slats to bend with (the guards got very hot). No more rubbing.

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If you look closely, you can see a dust line at 2 1/4" on the inner fork tube. I did a 50 mile test ride on dirts roads, and the forks stroked down to this close from bottoming - just about right for dirt roads. On more rugged trails, I expect the forks to almost bottom and on small jumps I expect the forks to bottom lightly. I don't do big jumps...

AMSOIL suspension fluid - about $8.  Mike Troast AMSOIL dealer


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busy Fork bleed valves

Remove the bleed screws and install the bleed valves using the very small aluminum tool provided in the kit. Don't screw them down too tight or the tool will bend. If oil seeps out while riding, they're too loose. I usually put a very light coat of Bel Ray grease on the o-rings before installing the bleed valves.

So when and how to use them?

Before riding and during a ride if you feel the forks getting stiff as the air inside gets hot and expands:
Dismount, put the side stand down, pull front brake lever, pull back on bars to extend forks, use finger on left hand to bleed air. You should hear a hiss if the engine is not running.

After loading bike and tying down the front end after straps are tightened:
Use finger on either hand to bleed air. You should hear a hiss.

Fork bleed valves - about $35.  System Tech Racing


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busy Skid plate

I removed the stock plastic engine guards and installed a Ricochet skid plate. Before mounting the skid plate, I zip-tied a piece of bicycle inner tube to each of the lower frame rails so the skid plate would not touch the frame anywhere. I also used larger washers on the mounting bolts. When riding, I don't hear a sound from the skid plate, except when rocks bounce up and hit it.

Ricochet skid plate - about $88.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


More skid plate

I really like plastic skid plates and ever since I installed the aluminum Ricochet I was on the lookout for a plastic replacement. My favorite plastic skid plate maker, Hyde Racing, had nothing listed for the WRR and things were looking bleak. Then quite by accident, I saw an Acerbis skid plate for the WR250F/WR450F and decided to buy it and see if I could get it to fit the WRR.

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The aluminum and plastic skid plates are about the same length under the engine, but the plastic Acerbis sticks up in front a bit more than the aluminum unit.

The plastic Acerbis unit is narrower than the aluminum unit, but the aluminum skid plate was a bit wider than it had to be to cover the lower frame rails, so I thought this wouldn't be a problem.

The small round pieces attached to the tail of the skid plate are plastic washers, which I snipped off and used on the front mounting bolts.

The plastic Acerbis is 2 pounds lighter than the aluminum Ricochet.

I used my heat gun to bend the wings out a bit, and then I mounted the plastic skid plate to the bike using the front mounting bolts only. The bend on the lower front was not sharp enough, so I heated this area while bending the rear of the skid plate up and held it in place with small c-clamps. Eventually, the skid plate conformed to the WRR frame rails pretty nicely, and I was able to drill and mount the rear bolts. Unfortunately, I forgot to hog out an oil drain hole, but I'll do that at the next oil change.

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I left the bicycle inner tube pieces in place on the frame rails, not to deaden any sound, but as a hedge against having to put the Ricochet back on. I shouldn't have worried; the Acerbis is an excellent fit and it makes absolutely no noise at all, even among the rocks.

I'll replace the front mounting bolts with round head allen bolts as soon as I get a chance to stop by the hardware store; it may be a while with all the ridin I'm doin...

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Acerbis skid plate - about $80.  MX1West


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busy Naked bike look

My next mod was to remove the plastic side panels (number plates) while they were still in good shape and make a Kydex cover for the battery compartment. There are 4 advantages when doing this mod:

1. Makes the bike narrower through the mid and rear sections.

2. Opens passageways for air to get to the air box intake easier. At my riding elevation (8,000' - 12,000'), the WRR needs all the air it can get.

3. Gives a 'naked bike' look, which I always like (takes me back to my early bike days).

4. Preserves the side covers so that at resale, the bike will look 'new' when I put them back on.


Not to mention all the weight savings.

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busy Front sprocket

I replaced the stock 13T front sprocket with a 12T sprocket. This was the first step in a series of gearing changes I was to make.

Most of my riding is on dirt roads and some on easy trails; very little is on paved roads. I ride at 8,000' to 12,000' elevation and the power on the little WRR engine is way down because of the lack of oxygen at these elevations. The 12T front sprocket barely got the WRR performance back to sea-level zip.

Note that I removed the sprocket cover and engine case guard; eliminates mud build-up.

Pay no attention to the dirty chain; that's dust from the first ride on dusty roads.

Supersprox Front Sprocket 12 Tooth - about $20.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


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Handlebars, guards, mirror (see also next panel)

I replaced the stock handlebar with a Pro Taper SE CR high bend aluminum handlebar.

I added a set of Tusk D-Flex handguards, Spider SLX hand grips, small mirror, and an old Enduro Jug mount that I took off of an XR250R that I sold in the spring. I don't like to ride with a hydration pack on my back, so I carry a 1 quart Enduro Jug on the handlebars.

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Mirror detail-->
(no supersize)

Pro Taper SE CR high bend handlebar - about $60.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Tusk D-Flex handguards - about $55.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Spider SLX grips - about $15.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Mirror - about $3.  Auto Parts store or WalMart


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busy Handlebars, guards, mirror AGAIN

I replaced the Pro Taper SE handlebar setup (described above) with a new Easton EXP woods bend very fat bar. The EXP bar is a new fatter design made by Easton, makers of Pro Taper fat bars. The center section is 1 3/8" in diameter (35mm). I won't bore you with the marketing chatter.

I had to get new bar mounts (with 8 bar clamp bolts instead of the usual 4). I got some Zeta hand guards and a set of carbon fiber protectors with turn signal mounts and a set of Cycra triple clamp side mounts. For mounting the handguards to the handlebar ends, I got a set of STR rigid handguard end insert mounts (2 aluminum threaded inserts plus 2 8mm flat head bolts).


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I switched handlebars to get more straight mounting space near the controls. I needed the extra space to mount a new Garmin Oregon 550 GPS receiver, so I searched the inter-web and found these new EXP bars with the longer straight sections. The picture shows the Pro Taper SE bars (upper) with about 7 1/4" of straight bar and the EXP (lower) with about 9" of straight bar.

I also wanted to switch to the Zeta hand guards and protectors with turn signal mounts. The Cycra triple clamp side mount is a setup that I have wanted to try for some time and the Zeta hand guards are Cycra licensed, so they work with the triple clamp side mounts just fine.


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            Trial fit --->

The hardest part of the whole exercise was tapping the handlebar ends for the rigid handguard end insert mounts. I'd only tapped a few small-diameter aluminum pieces before, and this effort was much more difficult. I had trouble keeping the tap straight on the right end of the bars, but I finally got the hole tapped deep enough. (When the tap is crooked, it digs into the sidewall material too much and is very difficult to turn.) I shoulda taken the bars to my local machine shop like I did my TE610 bars.

I did not have to remove the top triple clamp to install the mounts, but I did use a u-joint extension to get to the right side nut. A casting on the right side of the stem impedes access a bit, but it's doable. I used M8-1.25 x 55mm flange head mounting bolts instead of the supplied non-flange head 60mm bolts. The non-flange head 60mm bolts are shown in the 'additional pictures' panel below; 2 and 3 (washers), and 5 (bolt end sticks out). They looked tacky, so I changed 'em.


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Everything else was a piece of cake. Well, almost. I had to bend the handguard bars at each end just a bit to get a square fit with the handlebar end and with the triple clamp mount. I mounted each bar in a large vise and pulled the free end a bit to get the fit I needed.

The handlebar mounts can be offset forward or back 5mm, and I chose 5mm back because I have short arms. Good choice; the ergos are very good.

Here you can see the 8 bar-clamp bolts. Easton has this to say about the clamps:

"Our unique EXP clamp design borrows from the factory bikes and moves away from the traditional four 8mm bolt clamp design and replaces it with an eight bolt design that uses 6mm bolts. This gives you a more secure interface between the bar and the clamp without over stressing the bolts - by distributing clamping forces over a greater area.

Easton's EXP clamps were specifically designed to work with the EXP 35mm bar. By better distributing the clamping stress on the bar, Easton's design greatly reduces the peak stress areas - reducing the chance of bar failure under load."


The bar bend is very similar to the CR Hi on the previous Pro Taper SEs I had mounted, so my wrists are happy. I did cut the bars down, but I cut them 3/4" wider than I usually do for my trail bikes. I wanted more leverage to be able to move the WRR around easier when I do get it on some more-difficult trails.

Back in the late '80s, some riding friends designed and made triple clamp mounts for their handguards. They used a nylon washer on the mounting bolt that connects the end of the handguard to the triple clamp mount. As the handlebars flex, the handguards rotate very slightly, pivoting on this bolt. This would not happen with a solid mount; the handguards would have to flex as a beam. They reasoned that the more flexy nylon washer mount allowed the handlebars to flex more and thus reduce fatigue. I searched high and low and finally found some nylon washers and mounted them up. I'll report on the performance as I get seat time.

Part  gramsgrams  
HandlebarsPro Taper SE813778EXP woods
Mounts/bar clampsStock Yamaha369502EXP TC 45 5 & EXP TH 70 11.9
Handguards/end boltsTusk608509Zeta + end inserts
Inner clampsTusk213334Cycra triple clamp mounts
Hand protectorsTusk plastic157153Zeta carbon fiber
  Totals  2,1602,276   116g heavier (4 oz)

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Here are the bars mounted and ready to ride. Click the picture to see details.

The cockpit has a clean, uncluttered look. My hands go naturally to the grips. The reach is perfect when seated or standing. In my limited time to ride, I felt no vibration at all through the bars, and no shocks to my arms when riding over rocks and roots. So far, so good.


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The front view looks nice. I mounted the carbon fiber handguards upside down and switched sides so the turn signals would be more visible from the front. The stock position had them positioned too low and they were hard to see.

I'll be replacing the brake line with a shorter one.


This mod costs about $417, not including shipping charges.
It would have cost more, but I was able to re-use the mirror and keep costs down.

EXP woods bend really fat bars and mounts - about $100.  Cycle Gear
Zeta handguards - about $80.  Wheeling Cycle Supply
Zeta carbon fiber hand protectors - about $130.  Wheeling Cycle Supply
Cycra triple clamp side mounts - about $35.  Cycra Racing
Turn signals - about $36.  Wheeling Cycle Supply
STR rigid handguard end insert mounts - about $21.  STR / System Tech Racing
Spider SLX grips - about $15.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Mirror - about $3.  Auto Parts store or WalMart


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busy Handlebars, guards, mirror - additional pictures

As I was concluding my EXP installation, a discussion about the EXP bars started up on WRR/X Forum. An Aussie from Melbourne (rpo83) posted pics and comments about his EXP install. I have included some of his comments and a picture here. For the full discussion, go to the "Easton EXP bars..... Mounting problem beware" thread.
__________________________

rpo83 says: I went with the EXP TC 45 0 Clamps. They bring the bars slightly closer to you as the Yamaha Clamps are slightly offset. Here are my 0 clamps installed.

There is a ton of clearance, so it is your choice. Looking at it now, i would have probably chosen the 5mm offset clamps if i knew there was this much room, and that the original Yamaha's had offset.

One problem I am now having is that the cables seem too short! Could someone please post a picture of the cable routing as it leaves the frame to the kill switch and master cyl... I set my bars at 0 on the dial. I noticed in ramz's pics he had his bars rotated nearer 1, so that may help, however a picture of the cable routing would be appreciated.

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It's ramz again. Here are my pics and comments.

I took some pictures, but the angles are a bit different than rpo83's angle, so don't know how helpful they will be. Note that I've lowered the triple clamps an inch, and that interferes with the sight line.

Left side view (remember, I'm using the TC 45/5 clamps with 5mm offset, to the rear).


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Right side view.


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As to bar rotation, I'm back near zero after a two hour test ride.

I ordered a shorter brake line to get rid of the ugly loop up top - stainless braided. It should help the braking feel a bit, also.


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My cable routing will not be like others. I have ridden dirt bikes for 30 years or so and am quite used to the kill button under my left thumb. So, on my TE610, TE310, and WRR250R, I moved the on/off/starter switch to the left side of the handlebars. There was just enough slack in the wire bundle to reach the left hand grip.

Also note that I don't have the stock turn signals in the way. The Zeta signals are built into the hand protectors and the wires were easy to route so they stayed out of the way. I even cleaned up the wiring behind the headlight a bit because I didn't have the bulky Yamaha turn signal connectors (I used bullet connectors instead).


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I like to be able to switch the headlight off and on as desired and none of these bikes allowed that, so I bought K&S light/horn/turnsig switch assemblies and mounted them on the right side of the handlebars on each bike. On the Huskys, I was able to use molex pins on the new switch wires and they plugged right into the stock molex connectors. On the WRR, I had to cut off the stock switch and add female bullet connectors to the Yam harness wires. The K&S switch wires already had male bullet connectors and the wires were more than long enough to reach. You'll see the fat bundle passing through between the triple clamps and the speedo.

I think I ended up with the throttle cables in a different spot where they pass by the speedo unit in order to keep them free from interference from other items.

Note: I did return the Huskys to stock wiring and switch positions when I sold them.


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I did run into a problem with the throttle cables. I had to raise the wire bundles on the right side of the frame to allow the throttle cables to ride up freely when I turned the bars to full lock.


 
 
Front brake line

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Here's the shorter brake line, very sano. The braided-stainless-steel-wrapped line is much firmer than the stock rubber-covered line. When I grab a handful of front brake, the front wheel stops instantly. Milder stops are well controlled. The hardware is high-quality, and the brake line kit is excellent.


Custom HEL front brake line w/braided stainless steel cover - about $79.  moto-heaven



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busy Taillight

I couldn't wait to remove the stock taillight assembly and mount up one of my own making. Made of Kydex, of course. Just a simple flat plate with a bend in the middle for mounting under the rear frame. The license plate mounts on the angled back section. I also used a smaller flat piece of Kydex to hold an LED light. Two bolts hold everything together

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This simple version will be replaced later with one that allows me to mount teardrop turn signals on the sides; gotta be legal for Utah!

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Simple and functional.
 

During a slow time in the fall, I decided to add the teardrop turn signals to the taillight assembly. DMV code requires a rear reflector, so I decided to add that as well. The larger piece of Kydex needed to hold the plate and reflector has one benefit: it cuts down on the mud the rear wheel is trying to throw on my back. The extra weight caused me some concern, so I beefed up the bend area with a second layer of Kydex to stiffen the assembly and keep it from floppin around. Still sano busy

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Baja Designs LED taillight (lens with leds only) - about $36.  Baja Designs
586 LED Flasher, #44-0760 - about $35.  Four Strokes Only - Order by phone only
586 MOTOLED LED Flashers, #D45-58-586 - about $44.  Langston Racing
Kydex - about $10.  eBay


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Trail Tech Endurance computer

The WRR speedometer and odometer get their input from a transmission-mounted sensor and this sensor is known to be inaccurate. It's so bad that a company named 12oclockLabs makes the SpeedoDRD, a speedo corrector device which can be adjusted to make either the speedo or the odo read a more accurate number. I say 'or' because when you have corrected one, the other is invariably still inaccurate. To further complicate matters, gear changes (front and rear sprockets) are not accounted for by the WRR sensor, and the SpeedoDRD is the only way to get the WRR speedo or odo back on track.

I bought the SpeedoDRD but then decided I wanted a different solution. I want an accurate speedo and an accurate odo. I could get both with a Trail Tech electronic odometer, and that's what I bought. My plan was to use the Trail Tech for speedo and odo functions (and other, such as max speed, average speed, run time etc.) and to use the SpeedoDRD to correct the WRR odometer and forget about the WRR speedo. I want accurate miles reflected on the WRR odo for legal reasons. CO requires the vehicle mileage on a bill of sale and I wanted the WRR odo to be that mileage.

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The Trail Tech odometer uses a front-wheel-mounted magnet and a brake caliper mounted sensor. Here is the Trail Tech magnet mounted in the head of their replacement sprocket bolt.

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The Trail Tech sensor is held in place on the brake caliper with just one small screw. I followed the instructions and marked and drilled the hole and it fit perfectly.

Not shown is the routing of the sensor tube (the black plastic tube exiting the sensor that contains the sensor wire) along the front brake line and then up to the Trail Tech mount on the handlebar. I taped the brake line and sensor tube at strategic spots for a sano setup.

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Here is the Trail Tech unit mounted on the right side of the handlebars.

You can see the routing of the sensor tube along the front brake line and the tape holding them together. I use Gaffer's tape, an expensive cloth-based tape that is much more rugged and longer lasting in the elements than regular duct tape.

This picture was actually taken several weeks after I installed the Trail Tech but is shown here because I had no other picture of the mounted Trail Tech. Observant readers will spot the FMF Power Programmer mounted near the top front of the fuel tank. I'll talk about the FMF unit later.

Also shown on the left side of the handlebar is my Garmin eTrex Vista HCx GPS receiver, which I don't actually talk about because it's not really a WRR part, mod, or add-on.

Not shown is the installation of the SpeedoDRD, which I install much later.

Trail Tech Endurance computer kit - about $80.  Trail Tech
SpeedoDRD - about $80.  12oclockLabs


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busy Tires, rear sprocket, and drive chain

I removed the stock tires and tubes and installed:

Front: 21" Tubliss kit and IRC TR-1 3.00-21 DOT-rated trials-type tire.

Rear: 18" Tubliss kit and Pirelli MT43 4.00-18 DOT-rated trials-type tire.

Trials-type tires work very well here in central CO where I ride lots of dirt roads and trails, often with embedded rocks that the tires roll over with nary a bobble. When it rains, the tires work very well on slimy rocks and roots.

The DOT-rated trials-type tires are not true trials tires. They have a harder rubber compound, stiffer side-walls, and are bias ply whereas competition trials tires are radial ply and very soft. Nevertheless, these DOT-rated tires do very well, thank you. And you can ride paved roads as well; the MT43 has a speed rating of P - 94 MPH. See tire spec chart at WEB Bike World

The all-up trials-type tires and wheels weigh 1/4 lb less in front and 1 lb less in the rear, yielding a slight improvement in suspension performance. However, the most noticeable effect on suspension is the tire side-wall flex and terrain conformance of the contact patch which makes for a much smoother ride in the rough stuff.

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There is one fly in the ointment: the larger-than-stock-diameter rear tire raises the axle 5/8" and I had to fiddle with the rear sag and raise the triple clamps on the forks a bit to get the correct ride attitude. This is minor given the improved tire performance, and easily accommodated.

The larger tire also changes the overall gear ratio which I accounted for by changing the rear sprocket to a Stealth Tri-Metal 47T as shown. I went from the stock 43 to 47 for two reasons; to offset the larger rear tire and to get some low speed grunt for trail work. The larger sprocket meant I had to change the chain; I used a DID VT Narrow X-Ring Chain cut to 110 links with a rivet master link. Note that I previously changed the front sprocket to 12T. Here are the current final-drive numbers with the MT43 rear tire: 12/47 w/110 chain.

On a chain related note, Yamaha released a Technical Bulletin on 12/15/08 about chain adjustment; get a copy of the bulletin here:     Technical Bulletin M2008-20short pdf

This version is only 2 pages long to speed downloads; the missing pages do not show any useful information.

IRC TR-1 DOT-rated trials-type tire - about $38.  American Motorcycle Tire/AMT
Pirelli MT43 DOT-rated trials-type tire - about $64.  American Motorcycle Tire/AMT
Tubliss 18" and 21" kits - about $90 each.  Blais Racing Services
Stealth Tri-Metal sprocket - about $80.  Sprocket Center
DID VT Narrow X-Ring Chain 520x120 - about $109.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


Here's what is on the TR-1 front tire:

IRC
MADE IN JAPAN
TRIALS

3.00 - 21 51P
4 PR
TUBE TYPE

DOT CJ24 TLA 1607 S-I 3K

LOAD RANGE B 2 PLY NYLON
MAX LOAD 195 kg (430 LBS) AT 225 kPa (33 PSI) COLD

 
 
 

Here's what is on the MT-43 rear tire:

PIRELLI
MADE IN BRAZIL
PROFESSIONAL

DP 4.00-18 64P
(1140) MT43 MOPM 189

TUBELESS
ON TUBE TYPE RIM FIT A TUBE

DOT XE Y2 E145 4307
E3 75R-0055467

PLIES:   TREAD: 2 POLYESTER   SIDEWALL: 2 POLYESTER
MAX LOAD: 280 Kg (617 LBS) AT 230 KPA (33 LBS) COLD
LOAD RANGE B        FOR U.S. ONLY


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Shift lever

About the time I bought my WRR, there was some buzz on the newly announced Driven shift lever. I had a look at the pictures and ordered a couple. I was pleasantly surprised when they arrived; they looked great and fit perfect. As per usual practice, I used a longer mounting bolt and screwed on a locking nut; that sucker will never get loose!

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Bolt detail-->
(no supersize)

Driven shift lever - about $28.  Driven Racing


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busy GYTR muffler and FMF Power Bomb header

In the search for more power, I bought a Yamaha GYTR muffler and FMF Power Bomb header pipe and installed them. I noticed a modest increase in power, mostly on the top end. They look nice, but the muffler was too noisy for my taste. After a 50 mile test ride, I removed both items and re-installed the stock header and muffler.

The GYTR muffler has been sold. I'm keeping the power bomb for now.

GYTR muffler - about $414.  NCY-Motorsports on eBay.
FMF power bomb header - about $177.  Dennis Kirk


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busy Muffler mods

I tried the GYTR muffler and it was too noisy and I suspect the FMF muffler would be as well. So I started looking at the stock muffler to see what could be done. I had long since removed the EXUP system (see EXUP removal), so the mid pipe was free of obstructions. Well actually, there is the catalytic converter mounted in about 16" from the header/mid junction, but I read about what a bear that was to remove. That left only the muffler can itself. I had removed the rear cap in my weight reduction frenzy, so I just unscrewed the three allen screws on the end and removed the spark arrestor (which I will reinstall).

Looking in, I saw a metal piece separating the front and rear of the can and mounted offset in this piece was a small tube with perforated sides. All of the exhaust must pass through this tube to get out. The end of the tube was just begging to be drilled, so I did. I have a very long 1/4" drill bit that was perfect for the job. I drilled two holes to start with. I shook out the metal shavings, reinstalled the spark arrestor and mounted the muffler on my WRR. On my next test ride I noticed two things: the sound was just a teeny bit deeper and throttle response was crisper. I do ride at over 8,000" elevation, so anything that improves air flow has got to improve performance. Those who ride at lower elevations may not see as much improvement, but it's worth a try (and it's free).

I plan to open the can again and add another hole or two. If I go too far and the exhaust gets too noisy, I can always plug a hole or two with a sheet metal screw and some locktite. This mod is in the spirit of the "Gordon Mods" which came to mind as I was drilling the first hole.

I have also long since removed the muffler protector and the sight of all those mounting brackets was starting to get to me. I wanted the muffler to look like the smooth, svelte FMF can, so I got out the Dremel and cut off five brackets. Looks better, and saved some weight, too. I'll do some finish work, filing down the residue and then paint the can with a fresh coat of hi-temp paint. Pics later.


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busy Roto Pax fuel pack

My WRR is getting about 70 MPG, but I see that number dropping as I add mods to increase performance. Even so, at 60 MPG, you could easily ride about 100 miles on a tank of gas (this leaves a bit in the tank to keep the fuel pump cool) which would more than cover a day of off-road riding for me. Nevertheless, I decided to add some range by adding the ability to carry extra fuel. I decided on three different approaches: Roto Pax 1-gallon fuel pack, Sweet Cheeks setup with two 32 oz MSR fuel bottles, and expanding the stock tank by cutting and welding in an expansion strip near the tank equator. Each of these has it's pro's and cons, so I thought I'd try them all and see what worked best. (I do not include the Safari tank because of it's size and cost.)

Only the Roto Pax mod is shown because I haven't had time to work on the other options; too much time spent riding now that I can ride all day without refueling busy

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First up is the Roto Pax fuel pack holding one gallon of fuel and measuring 9 1/2 L x 13 1/4 W x 3 H. This was a pretty easy mod, requiring only drilling one hole in the metal sub-frame back by the taillight mount and cutting out a piece of plastic from the rear fender. The emphasis here is minimal cost, weight, and effort.

The visual effect when the pack is mounted is a very clean look. One minor drawback to this method is that the rear of the WRR is higher than normal and you really have to kick your leg up to clear the pack. Or, slide your foot and leg across the seat in front of the pack when climbing aboard.

When riding, I can't even tell the Roto Pax is back there.

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Here you can see the pack mounting pieces passing through the hole I cut out of the rear fender. Normally you only use one mounting piece for the one gallon pack, but because of how I chose to mount the unit, I had to stack two mounting pieces up.

When I don't want to carry the Roto Pax, I remove the tightening pieces (they are fastened together and unscrew as a unit) and the base unit just sits all alone on the rear end, mostly out of the way.

I thought long and hard on whether to mount a rear rack and then mount the Roto Pax on that. In the end, as you see, I went for a cleaner look and left the tail rack off. This is contrary to two other Roto Pax setups I've seen, which used the GYTR rear rack as a base for mounting. If you use the GYTR rack, it may be a little easier to remove the Roto Pax mount when you don't want it on the bike.Your preference.

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The blue high-density foam is used to stabilize the fuel pack. The small forward piece keeps the pack from marking the seat and is free standing and not glued or fastened. The rear two pieces keeps the pack off of the rear fender and just slide down over the mount. I have to tighten the hold-down handle pretty tight to keep everything firmly in place. This leads to why I used the double locker instead of the supplied single locker in the kit.

When you turn the handle to tighten the locker, you slide the handle across two small nubbins cast into the pack. Each successive turn makes it harder to slide over the nubbins, but you have to have it tight or it just won't do. By using the double handle setup, you turn the lower handle snug, and then easily turn the upper handle to provide the lock-down hold.

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Here is the (dirty) bottom showing the two bolts passing through the metal sub-frame. On the right side, I drilled out the existing hole to fit the bolt and on the left side I drilled a new hole. This offsets the fuel pack about 3/8" to the left, away from the muffler side. Also, I mounted the fuel pack so the cap is on the side opposite the muffler, just as a precaution. The frame is double layered here, and I used spacer washers between the upper and lower frame plates to avoid bending the plates when tightening the nuts on the bolts. It is these spacer washers that make removing and installing the mount tedious and using a GYTR rear rack would make it easier. And yes, I double-nutted and the first nuts on are locking nuts. I don't EVER want this coming loose! Probably should have used four locking nuts, but only had two in the box.

Note - the camera angle makes the bolts look tilted; they are absolutely vertical.

1 Gallon Gasoline + Pack Mount - about $73.  Roto Pax
DLX Pack Mount - about $30.  Roto Pax
2 of each: 1/4-20 bolts, 5" long, grade 8; 1/4-20 locking nuts; 1/4-20 regular nuts - from your local hardware store or Fastenal.


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busy Rear shock

The WRR suspension is a bit weak on rough off-road terrain. As mentioned earlier, I changed fork fluid and that helped the front, but the shock was in need of major overhaul. I read HighFive's comments about the suspension in the 'Naked' thread on ADVrider here and here and decided to send my shock to Travis at Go-Race. The only problem was, it was prime riding season (after Labor Day and no tourists) and I didn't want two weeks of down time. What to do. I checked eBay and there it was - a rear shock from a WRR part-out. I snapped it up and when it got here, I called Travis to discuss what I should have done, and I shipped the shock out. The shock has now arrived back here, but I'm in the middle of fuel injection tuning, so I'll wait a week or so and then mount it up and give it a try. Stay tuned.

I got a bit sidetracked with the FI tuning, but now I'm back workin on the shock. I pulled the stock shock (3 bolts) and installed the eBay shock that Go-Race revalved for me. I left the settings as Travis had set them; see the white band on the reservoir - C 6   R 12. I did set the sag, but that's all. Took about an hour being careful and measuring everything plus greasing the bolts and lubing the YamaLink zerk.

The test ride was limited to dirt roads, but I did get the speed up a bit, and when I hit the stutter bumps, I didn't feel a thing. They usually put the rear end wide on the turns, but not this time; the WRR tracked right where I pointed it and the rear end soaked up the bumps with nary a bobble or bounce. Truly amazing! I usually grip the tank and handlebars firmly and set up for the chatter, but with the Go-Race valved shock, I could ride cool and relaxed. I'll get out tomorrow on some bigger, gnarlier stuff, but I predict we have a winner.

Time passes...      I've had a chance to ride more varied and rugged terrain and the rear shock has performed great. It soaks up the rocks and roots nicely. Mind you, I'm not riding super-technical single-track trails; I use my CRF230F for that. I'm riding ATV trails and easy single-track trails, but that's all I expect to ride with the WRR, and the shock is great for this type of riding.

I thank HF for the suspension recommendation and I'm passing it on, here and now. If you have any suspension problems, call Travis at Go-Race. His phone number is on the sticker -->


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busy Bag, tools, et al

I used an MSR Roost Pak for a tank bag so it would not be in the way while riding trails. I used the same bag on my TE610 and it worked great. It's large enough to carry a few tools, patch kit, and foul weather riding gloves.

I used 3/4" nylon straps and plastic buckle hardware and covered the straps with tubes made from neoprene to prevent abrasion by the nylon straps. I disconnect the mounting straps by pressing the buckles through the neoprene and reconnect by just pushing the connectors together. If I want to remove the bag for whatever, I leave the front strap on the tank mount and the side straps on the frame in place.

The gray strap around the bag middle keeps the contents from moving around while riding.

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Bottom of the bag showing how I attached the mounting straps through the loops that were sewn into the bag as purchased.

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The Motion Pro tool kit contains tools (shown next). The black inner tube section holds the reamer and insertion tools. The rubber cement is used on the plugs and is in the plastic tube to keep it from getting crushed. There are 5 plugs in a plastic tube. Lastly, a small air gauge is included.

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I've used several versions of MP tool kits, but the most recent one seems like the best. The kit contains a fold-up t-handle and four 1/4" drive sockets (8, 10, 12, 13 mm). I added three additional sockets (6, 14, 17 mm with 1/4 to 3/8 adapter).

I also placed the small offset wrench and bits from a Husky Pro mini tool kit into the MP kit; there's just enough room. The offset wrench is in the plastic bag to protect from moisture damage.

The Husky Pro tool kit is described further on my TE310 mods web page.

I still have the stock Yamaha tool kit mounted on the left frame below the seat, and I should go through it and remove unneeded tools. Then I'd have room for 5" vise grips, some nuts and bolts, and other hardware.

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The bag holds a pair of foul-weather riding gloves plus some poly-pro liners. I've tried about a dozen foul-weather gloves over the years, beginning with the original MSR Cold Pro gloves, and this pair of ARC Back Country Gloves is the best I've found. They have "a Hipora waterproof membrane to keep your hands dry and a Bemberg fleece lining for extra warmth and comfort". I get them in XL for use without liners and XXL for use with liners. If these gloves won't keep my hands warm, it's too cold to be riding anyway.

The pump has a high/low pressure switch on the bottom so it can handle the high and low pressure requirements of the Tubliss system in my tires.

MSR Roost Pak - about $21.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Nylon straps and plastic buckles - at your local camping equipment store.
Neoprene - at your local sewing supplies store.
Motion Pro tool kit - about $30.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Husky Pro tool kit - about $16 at your nearest Home Depot. Not available in the Home Depot online store.
Tubeless tire repair kit (tools, plugs, glue) - about $10 at your nearest WalMart.
Digital air gauge - about $8 at your nearest WalMart.
ARC Back Country Gloves - about $25.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Blackburn Mammoth 2 Stage Pump - about $22.  Amazon


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busy Battery and electrical

I know that sooner or later, I'll run the battery down and need to recharge it. I also know that the WRR will sit idle for weeks at a time while I'm off riding my CRF230F on technical trails. The Honda 250X Service Manual chapter on Battery/Charging System notes "The battery will self-discharge when the motorcycle is not in use. For this reason, charge the battery every 2 weeks to prevent sulfation from occurring." My WRR uses the same battery as a CRF450X, so the advice is applicable.

I added a charging pigtail to the battery terminals to facilitate trickle charging with my Yuasa charger. The pigtail tucks in between the frame and shock nicely.

And whaddya know, I had to charge the battery last week. When I was doing my fuel injection tuning, I had to turn on the ignition during one setup procedure and afterward, I forgot to turn the key off. The next morning, the WRR would not start. I connected the trickle charger for about four hours and the battery was good as new.

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I have now connected the ground wire from a Power Commander V, Auto Tune, and battery charger pigtail to the battery ground post. Also, I plan to connect the ground wires from a tachometer and one undisclosed electrical instrument. This is entirely too many connectors on the battery ground post; they stick out at all angles and are subject to bending. I decided to remove all the ground connections from the battery and connect them together remotely, where they would be out of the way and could be added-to easily.

I added one short pigtail that connects to the battery ground post and has a ring connector on the other end. I then passed a stainless steel bolt through the ring connector and collected all the other ground wires here also. A locking nut keeps everything secure. I put this remote ring collection under the gas tank on the left side. It stays in place with a tie wrap and even if it moves around and touches the frame, it won't matter because the other end is grounded.

So what about the positive power connections? As it turns out, most of the electrical instruments get power from the circuits they monitor or from a switched source and they don't connect directly to the battery.

Battery tender (plus charging pigtail) - about $28.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


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busy Case protector

Ivan of Sandman Parts designed a case protector and sprocket cover that was better lookin and more functional than the stocker and the Zeta I saw somewhere. I don't use a sprocket cover, but I jumped on the case protector. Looks great, huh? The price was great too.

Check the WRR 'naked' post on ADVrider for order information; post # 8274 or thereabouts.


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busy Headlight shield

One rider had his headlight broken during a ride and discovered how expensive it was to replace. To get a new glass lens, you have to order the entire headlight assembly - $320 retail, $215 Service Honda price. Ouch!

Aerostich sells the StonGard Headlight Shield, a 12" x 12" sheet of 60 mil thick clear vinyl from which you can cut a piece to cover the headlight lens. I cut a piece 4 7/8" x 3 3/16" for the WRR lens.

The vinyl is also sold in 14 mil thickness, but I don't think that will provide enough protection.

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I used an alcohol wipe to clean the lens before application of the vinyl. The adhesive on the back of the vinyl is quite good; a piece of vinyl I installed on my CRF250X in 2005 is still firmly attached.

You don't have to heat the vinyl before applying, but I found that it helps to get the vinyl perfectly flat and adhering at all points, all the way to the edge. Just a little heat is all that I use.

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Side view showing how thick the vinyl is.

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You can't tell it's there.

NOTE: When I first purchased a sheet of the vinyl in 2005, it was 80 mil thick and Aerostich showed this caution - this material should not be used on headlight lenses smaller than 5" with over 80W bulbs; a thermal crack may ensue.

I have replaced the headlight switch on my WRR with a K&S switch so I can switch the headlight off, which is how I usually ride (I avoid riding at night). So heat is not an issue for me. If I rode at night and switched the light on, cooler night air would help keep heat down. If you find and buy the 80 mil vinyl and if you ride with the headlight on during the day or have a higher wattage bulb than stock, you may not want to do this mod. If you buy the current 60 mil vinyl, I don't think you'll have any heat problems. Just my opinion.

StonGard Headlight Shield, part number 3569 - about $18.  Aerostich


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busy Temperature stickers

I plan to do some temperature monitoring when I install my 290 big bore kit and found these very nice Factory Effex temperature stickers on Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. The gaps are 9 to 14 degrees F, close enough for my needs.

I put one sticker on the top of the transmission on the right side.

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I put another sticker on top of the radiator. I used an alcohol wipe to clean the surface before application of the stickers. The adhesive on the back of the stickers is quite good. Hold the stickers by the side edges when you take off the backing and mount them. The stickers are thick and sturdy.

Notice the small allen wrench stuck in the screw head on the radiator cap. I discovered the screw a few months after I had the bike when I wanted to check coolant level in the radiator. Normally, I just check the level in the overflow bottle, but for some reason I wanted to see if the radiator was full and tried to remove the radiator cap. It would turn a bit and then stop. I tried 4 or 5 times and it just wouldn't come off. Then I spotted the screw and after removal, the cap came off easily. I checked the Yamaha bike setup guide and there was no mention of removing the screw. I removed it permanently; you need to be able to add coolant/water in the field and I didn't want to carry an extra allen head wrench just for this one screw.

Factory Effex temperature stickers in packages of 3 - about $15.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


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busy MoJavi™ Saddlebag by Giant Loop

Giant Loop makes the Mojavi Saddlebag and here's what they have to say about them:

"Specifically designed to carry just the essentials needed for a day trip or trail ride, the MoJavi Saddlebag is the slim, trim bag for inner tubes, tools, fluids and other "save a ride" necessities."

These bags are the shiznit and from the time I first heard about them and saw early pictures, I knew I wanted them. I checked the Giant Loop website about twice a week, and finally, there they were.

These bags are expensive, but the workmanship is outstanding and there is nothing like them on the market - worth every penny. Uhh, every dollar.

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Although the bags have a rubber backing, I wasn't about to let the right side bag rest on the unshielded muffler. I also didn't want to put the muffler shield back on; too tacky. Besides, I had already cut off the mounting brackets. One night while cruising SuperMotoJunkie.com, I found these trick standoffs and decided to give them a try. A heat resistant tape is wrapped around the muffler and then the heat resistant hose covers it; there is a large hose-clamp that you tighten to keep everything secure.

When the bags are removed, it looks fairly clean. The whole assembly doesn't weigh much, either.

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The bags are supposed to fit almost any bike, and they sure fit my WRR great. There are two mounting straps, one at the front of each bag. They advise trimming these mounting straps after you get the bags where you like them. There is also a mounting strap in the rear, which I have looped around the upper-rear of the sub-frame and under the rear fender.

I may add another buckle to each bag's top to secure the ends of the wrap-around straps, which are shown here just tucked in.

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Trial fit; the clips are temporary.

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One of the things I want to carry onboard is an aluminum fuel bottle. Quite some time ago, I bought two MSR 33 oz fuel bottles hoping both would fit in one bag. Now that I had the saddlebags, it was turning out to be a tight fit for both, and carrying only one seemed lame considering how much distance I would get - about 15 miles. And then I ran across a web reference to a 1.5 liter Primus fuel bottle. I searched for a while and was able to locate some at a good price, with reasonable shipping, and PayPal for payment. Perfect! Two arrived shortly and their size was impressive - real fatties compared to the MSR. One would get me 24 miles and it fit nicely into one saddle bag (the left one, opposite the exhaust) with room left over for my tire pump and a cold-weather silk under-jersey.

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I used the Primus 1.5 liter aluminum bottles for a while, and then these popped up - Touratech 2 Liter Spare Fuel Canisters. They have more capacity and they fit nicely in the Mojavi with some room left over. Two of these adds over a gallon of extra fuel - GREAT!

Touratech also makes an oil canister, cheaper ($15), but not fuel rated.

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I put an all-weather medium-weight jacket in the right saddlebag and it fit with room to spare. The bag could easily hold the largest, bulkiest riding jacket I own.

If you'll look back at the pictures of the saddlebags, you'll notice there is an attached square bag mounted in the center, behind the seat. This bag is built super tough and will hold tools or whatever. For now, it's empty because I carry my tools in a tank bag and the stock plastic tool carrier mounted on the left side of the sub-frame down tube.



Note that I removed everything from the saddlebags for the first test ride - just being cautious.

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Oops, back to the drawing board. About 5 miles into my test ride, I smelled a very rank odor and stopped to check things out. The lower standoff had melted from the heat of the catalytic converter, which is located about 3" upstream from where the standoff was mounted. The upper standoff was in great shape. I beat a hasty retreat home and removed the saddlebags and melted standoff - no harm done to the bags - WHEW.

I've thought about an alternate standoff and will be mounting it up for a test soon.

busy Standoff bracket - I used a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" piece of aluminum angle stock, 6" long. The bolt is an M8-1.25 x 60 mm with one locking nut spun all the way down the bolt to the bracket, locking the bolt in place on the bracket. I slid the bolt end into an existing hole on a frame tab with one non-locking flange nut outside of the frame tab and one locking flange nut inside of the frame tab, locking the assembly in place on the frame tab. If you drill the hole in the bracket just right, the inside locking nut will have one flat side against the upper flat of the bracket, preventing it from turning.
Note: all three nuts are M8:1 locking, 1 non-locking flange, 1 locking flange.

I put two short pieces of slit, small-diameter hose on each end of the bracket and covered them with tape to keep them in place; these will prevent the aluminum from digging a hole into the bottom of the saddlebag.

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The bracket holds the bag away from the muffler just fine.

Test ride coming up.

FAIL. The front of the bag touched the muffler after being deformed by the oncoming air although I wasn't really riding all that fast. Back to the drawing board.

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This bracket is longer and has some rubber caps on the end to protect the bag from damage.
FAIL again. After a test ride, I found that the new bracket holds the bag away from the muffler just fine, but the bottom of the bag is too warm in my opinion.

I'm going to put a trimmed heat shield on, even though I was trying to avoid this. More fab and another test ride coming up soon.

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Success at last. I installed the heat shield and it works great. The heat shield got warm, but never enough to affect the bag or contents. At times, it wasn't any warmer than the nearby seat, i.e. ambient. I may trim the bottom of the heat shield; the gaudy gold look is not to my liking.

I plan to do most of my riding without the Mojavi mounted and only use it for really long rides when I need to carry extra gas and/or foul weather gear. But I could see where others would just leave it mounted all the time.

Mojavi™ Saddlebag - about $199.  Giant Loop
Primus 1.5 liter fuel bottle - about $18.  Great Outdoors Depot
Touratech 2 Liter Spare Fuel Canister 070-0580 - about $25.  Touratech
Touratech oil canister (not fuel rated) - about $15.  Touratech


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Footpegs

I like wide footpegs to relieve some of the strain on my instep. Wide means wider from front to back, so the footpeg presents a larger platform for the foot.

I tried the DRC wide footpegs, and had a problem or two (see discussion below), so I removed them and went back to the drawing board. One evening I was browsing the interweb and tried a search for 'footpeg wideners' and lo and behold, found these Works Connection wideners. They look just like the ones I used on my bikes from the '70s with the wimpy footpegs. Exactly like 'em.

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They come in many widths so they fit virtually any footpeg out there. I got a set of 1 1/2" for my WRR and a set of 1 5/8" for my CRF230F. Actually, I got several of each.

When they arrived, I noticed the 1 1/2" wideners didn't fit the WRR footpegs exactly. I used a grinder to take off 1/32" or so on the inside of the spacer and then they fit just fine. The local welding shop charged me $15 to weld the wideners on and walla, wide footpegs.

The wideners add 1/2" to the width, which is not a lot. The DRC wide footpegs were much wider and I found that a similar pair which I mounted on my CRF230F was too wide and stuck out too far on each side. These WC wideners add a little to the length, about 1/4" and that is just about right for my small 8 1/2 foot.

In the picture, the upper two footpegs have the wideners welded on and I'm showing a top and bottom view. A stock footpeg is just below for comparison. The two wideners are very simple, with just an extra strip of spacer welded to the inside edge to get the teeth away from the stock teeth. Click the picture to see the details up close.

Besides adding width and a little length, the wideners add strength to the stock pegs. They are welded to the stock pegs, so the good Yamaha design is still there. Not so with the DRCs, as you can now read about.

I had problems mounting the DRC footpegs.

After I mounted the right footpeg, I tried to fold the peg back, but it wouldn't move. I tried harder, and it still wouldn't move. I looked at the spring and noticed the upper end was catching on the footpeg mount. I wiggled the footpeg and the spring scraped along the mount. I removed the footpeg and ground off about 1/16" from the end of the spring. After I re-installed the footpeg, it would fold back. Sort of. It would only fold back about 1/2" and then stop. I tried to fold it back harder, and finally, something gave and the footpeg folded back some more and then stopped. It wouldn't fold back any further because the inboard edge hit the brake pedal (see top right picture below).

I removed the footpeg and checked the spring. Both the top and bottom ends were bent. Here's what happens. As you fold the footpeg back, the spring binds on the center post and the footpeg stops moving. If you force it, the ends of the spring bend and the spring gives enough for the footpeg to fold back further. Until it hits the brake pedal.

I was able to return the DRCs to the vendor for a full refund.

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DRC footpeg, rest position

 

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DRC footpeg, folded position, hitting the brake pedal

 

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Stock footpeg, rest position

 

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Stock footpeg, folded position

 

Works Connection footpeg wideners - about $27 per set.  MXSouth


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Fuel tank

I planned a trip to Arizona to get away from the cold December weather in Colorado and ride the warmer desert with some friends. With daily rides longer than I could make with the stock fuel tank, I broke down and ordered the IMS 3.1 gallon tank. The larger 3.5 gallon Safari tank was also available, but I decided to go with the more stock-looking IMS tank.

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The tank has a very nice finish, and there were no tooling marks to be found. One rider posted pics showing marks on his tank, but thankfully mine was pristine.

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The small wings are not symmetrical probably due to the WRR design, which has a radiator on the right and miscellaneous other stuff on the left of the fuel tank. IMS was looking for extra capacity anywhere they could find it.

The first few riders who ordered and installed the IMS tanks had problems with leakage around the fuel pump mount, and IMS began shipping the tanks with a fat o-ring to use in lieu of the stock Yamaha fuel pump gasket. One rider provided pictures showing what I believe the problem came from - a rough fuel pump mounting surface. I believe the o-ring was able to fill in the grooves in the mounting surface and seal the fuel pump mount.

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Here is the fuel pump mounting surface on my tank. You can see that it is very smooth, and I could not detect any machining marks whatsoever. The small blobs of plastic on the nut at 2 o'clock look to be casting residue and not machining residue.

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Close-up of the mounting surface.

Based on the excellent appearance of the mounting surface, I decided to use the stock Yamaha fuel pump gasket instead of the IMS-supplied o-ring. Read on to see if this was a good decision or not.

I'm not going to show all the disassembly and reassembly steps; the Yamaha Service Manual shows all of this in much better detail than I could. I'll show you what I did differently.

So, remove the seat - check, remove the shrouds - check, remove the plastic radiator vanes - check, remove the plastic cover on the left side - check, remove the tank bag - check, remove the stock fuel tank - check. Wait. Having done this once before when I installed some wiring and other stuff, I remembered how hard it was to get that tight fitting fuel connector off the fuel pump. So, I made a small tool out of Kydex and voila, the connector came off without a fuss. The pictures show the connector already removed for clarity - couldn't get a good camera shot with it all hooked up.

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Using a technique seen in an ADVrider post, I placed some clay on the rubber locating bumps and checked to see how the tank fit. You can't tell from the photos, but there was a uniform impression of the tank indents on the clay, centered on the rubber bumps. Perfect!

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Here's the fuel pump, all cleaned up and ready to be installed ... with the stock Yamaha gasket.

I swapped the mounting brackets and seat retainer from the stock tank to the IMS tank and installed the side brackets on the IMS tank. I used a 5mm longer bolt on the seat retainer because the stock bolt seemed too short. I used Anti Seize lubricant on all bolts that screwed into the brass captive nuts on the tank. I installed the fuel pump into the tank then set the tank on the bike, connecting the fuel line and electrical plug as I did so. I added 1,000 ml of gas to the tank and waited. No leaks. I added another 1,000 ml and waited. No leaks. I went to bed.

In the morning, I checked the tank - no leaks. So, I installed the mounting bolts, radiator vanes, left side cover, shrouds, and seat. I added another 9,800 ml of gas to the tank and waited. I worked on the tank vent hose and elbow and after finishing, waited some more. I took the WRR for a ride down the driveway and back. NO LEAKS! I was happy. I put on some cold weather gear and went for a 40 mile ride down the Arkansas River and back. When I got home, I checked the bike and still no leaks. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there will be no leaks on the Arizona trip.

Note - no leaks on the Arizona trip. Here are a few pics from the trip - click to supersize.

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One thing I did notice was the sound and feel of fuel sloshing around in the tank near the end of the ride, after a half gallon of fuel had burned off. I think the larger tank is the reason. I had a similar experience with my Husky TE310 when I installed a 3 gallon tank on it. I put some of that fuel tank foam in the Husky tank and no more sloshing. I'll be doing the same with the WRR tank, but I'll do it after the Arizona trip.

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The elbow that I used on the fuel tank cap looked exactly like the one SheWolf posted a picture of on WRR/X Forum; I found it at the local NAPA. It's a hard plastic heater hose elbow. I discovered that the elbow would not pass air when I blew on either end and found some excess casting flash inside at the 90 degree bend. I easily removed it with a small screwdriver.

The unmodified elbow fits the cap nipple loosely and really won't do. I cut about half of one leg off, and the elbow fits down into the cap. There is enough friction for it to just stay in place. I use a tank bag that sits on top of the elbow, and that will be more than sufficient to keep it in place. Without a tank bag, I'd be looking for a way to get a tighter fit, perhaps with a different elbow.

I added a short hose using a larger coupling sleeve as shown in the picture. The other end of the hose has a fuel filter on it, which is my attempt to keep dirty air from entering the fuel tank. It's not ideal, but will do for now.


  

Stock tank

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IMS tank

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The pictures above show that the tank is not noticeably wider, although it actually measures about 3/8 to 7/8 inches wider on each side. I didn't notice any extra width while riding, either. I did notice some top-heaviness when I first started riding, but that steadily diminished as I burned off fuel. That's the price you have to pay to carry extra fuel. However, the bike aesthetics haven't suffered much at all.

  

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But as most have discovered, the IMS tank is not an exact fit with the shrouds and seat. Looking down on the seat/tank junction, you can see where the tail of each shroud sits wider than the front of the seat. There is also a gap when looking in from the side. These issues are cosmetic, minor, and acceptable to me.

  

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A view of the left front of the tank, showing the gap between the shroud and plastic cover. The gap was larger still, but I removed the bracket on the left side of the tank, and the gap shrank a bit. I can live with this, although I will cover the gap with tape temporarily and eventually make a black Kydex cover. I don't want air, water, and whatever entering through the gap.

Strangely, no one else has posted anything about this misfit.... did I mess up the mounting somehow? I checked it three times and even removed the bracket to make the gap smaller.

I weighed the stock and IMS tanks with the mounting brackets attached and the respective caps on, but without the fuel pump, gasket, or mounting ring attached.
Stock - 5lb 3oz; IMS 4lb 6oz. That's 13oz lighter for the IMS tank.

I put 11,800 ml of fuel in the empty tank, filling it up right to the bottom of the filler neck, allowing room for the cap to sit down inside without forcing any fuel out the overflow. That's 3.117 US gallons, or as I'll say from now on: 3.1 gallons.

IMS did real good on capacity, tank construction, and finish and just average with fit.

  

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4 months later - As I mentioned above, I planned to add some tank foam to cut down on fuel sloshing. I used some leftover foam from when I did my TE310. The foam I bought is 3" x 6" x 16" and after checking how long the tank was, I cut two 3" x 6" x 9" pieces (one for each side of the tank) and one 3" x 4" x 5" piece for the center of the tank.

You have to be careful when cutting the foam because small ends spring up along every cut line - the foam is very coarse. These little ends break off as you handle the foam, especially as you stuff it into the fuel tank, and that will lead to possible clogging of the fuel filter. The foam won't get into the filter, it will surround it. So I very carefully trimmed these little ends with tiny scissors. Even so, I found a bunch in the bottom of my TE310 tank after a few fill-ups, so be sure to check your tank now and then. All the ends will eventually drop off and you'll see fewer and fewer black curly foam pieces.

Note: you can buy the foam in small blocks and just stuff the tank full - I saw this illustrated in several Google search results, but I saw more people using larger blocks than smaller.

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You can get the foam into the tank through the filler opening or through the fuel pump opening on the bottom (after removing the pump, of course). I decided I didn't want to take the pump off, so I stuffed the foam in through the filler opening. It's very hard to do this - you have to roll the foam into a long cylinder and feed it in, but of course as soon as it goes through the opening, it expands and holds up any further entry. I used a wooden dowel to push the foam along and shove it around the tank so the foam ends up where I wanted it, but it's easier said than done. Be careful not to tear the foam or you'll end up with more little black pieces in the tank; a 1" or larger dowel helps.

The picture above-right shows the foam almost blocking any view into the tank. This turned out to be a problem when filling the tank with fuel - you can't see the fuel until it starts to cover the foam and by then, it's difficult to stop the fuel flow without overflowing. I have since moved the foam away from the filler throat and can see the fuel much sooner - no spills now.

I was also careful not to shove the foam onto the fuel pump - I didn't want to pull any wires loose from the pump assembly. I don't think minor contact would be a problem. If this is a concern, then consider putting the foam in through the fuel pump opening because you'll be better able to position the foam away from the fuel pump.

The foam that I put in the tank was equivalent to 1.7 gallons by volume, slightly more than half the tank capacity. I put about twice that in my TE310 which reduced tank capacity by 1 1/2 cups so on the WRR, i figure I lost about .8 cups of capacity. The fuel sloshing on the WRR is comparable to the TE310 because the WRR foam is located at the highest point of the tank. The foam has a reduced effect when the fuel level falls below a gallon, but by then, the effect is very minimal anyway.

So how did it work? - just great. Just as on the TE310, I don't get any detectable fuel slosh as the fuel burns off and on twisty dirt roads, my WRR lays over for the turns very smoothly and with very little effort. Well worth the money and effort.

IMS fuel tank - about $275.  IMS
Heater hose elbow, 660-1656 - under $4 at NAPA.
RCI Racing 7050A - RCI Fuel Cell Safety Foam - about $13 per block.   Summit Racing.


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For tools on my moto, I'm carrying a small kit in the tank bag and the stock Yamaha Tool kit mounted on the left side frame below the seat. When I'm riding with the Mojavi bags, I move the Yamaha tool kit into the small bag in the center of the Mojavi mount and I tuck a few extra tools into the side bags. These extra tools are quite heavy; two tire irons, sockets/breaker bar for axle nuts, and a side stand. I don't always carry these heavy tools but I decided that I should and I decided to put them in some kind of tool holder/tube. I looked at 2, 2.5, and 3 inch PVC tubes but didn't like anything I saw. So I went on line and found these guys: ToolTube.com. with nano, regular, and mega tubes and still no juice. Then I went to the Agri Supply web site and ordered two of their smaller tubes. I already had their regular size, but it was too big. I only wanted to put the heavy tools in the tool holder, so the smaller Agri tube was more than big enough.  -->

busy I used some stainless steel band (for making stainless steel hose clamps) and stainless steel nuts and bolts to make the clamps; I made a bunch 'cause the tools are heavy. No, there's no lock or cap retainer. My Mojavi bags hang over the tube and hide it from all but the most nosey. I figure if they can get into the bags, they might as well take the heavy tools, too.

Manual canister sml w/neoprene seal, 70111 - about $4.  AgriSupply


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Pictures from the field

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Parts removed

These parts were removed because I felt they were not needed on my bike. You may prefer to keep some or all of these on your bike. Whatever. In all, I removed about 20 pounds but then added back about 5 pounds of new parts, yielding a net loss of about 15 pounds. This puts my WRR at around 265 pounds, wet, ready to ride, and no fuel.
  
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Buddy pegs
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Safety reflectors
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Helmet lock
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Mirrors
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Turn signals
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Engine guards
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Side stand switch
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Chain cover
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Seat strap
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Sprocket cover & chain guide
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Radiator air guide
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Taillight assembly
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Side covers
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Exhaust pipe protector
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Muffler protector
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Muffler cap
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Misc parts

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Manufacturer labels

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Frame near the steering head, right side.

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Swingarm, right front.

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Muffler.

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Swingarm, left side.


  

List of goodies to check out and buy. Prices as of 8/1/09 unless otherwise noted.

Turn Tech battery
Radiator shroud decal kit

$160  
$70-$85  

Turn Tech
Graphic MX


Spark-plug CR9EK
Front brake pads, EBC Sintered Metal
Rear brake pads, EBC Sintered Metal
Oil filter
Air filter

$6  
$27  
$27  
$11  
$18  

Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Service Honda
Service Honda


Clutch cable
Clutch lever
Clutch perch
Brake lever
Brake pedal

$13  
$6  
$18  
$12  
$68  

Service Honda
Service Honda
Service Honda
Service Honda
Service Honda


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